Not Sure Where to Ride in Spain? Our Favourite Roads Across Iberia
- MTTS
- Aug 9
- 9 min read
Part 1 If you are trying to choose where to ride in Spain and Portugal, do not just follow the obvious headline routes. Yes, do the famous places if you have not seen them. But leave room for the roads between them, the empty valleys, the odd little villages, the viewpoints, and the unexpected detours that become the bit you remember.
We got the map out and started in the north, then somehow found ourselves talking about King Pelayo, Napoleon, Portuguese mountain roads, flamingos, white villages and why one of the best roads in Iberia is nowhere near the coast. That is pretty much how a proper motorcycle tour should go.
Key Takeaways
The Picos de Europa are spectacular, but two or three days usually cover the core riding.
Remote Cantabrian valleys offer quieter roads, historic villages and a stronger sense of wild Spain.
Use Portugal's N2 as a guide, then detour onto roads such as the N103 and Douro border routes.
The Ronda, El Burgo and Yunquera road is one of Iberia's finest mountain rides.
Table of Contents
The Picos de Europa: Worth Doing, But Don't Stay Too Long
The Picos de Europa are the obvious first stop for anyone arriving by ferry into northern Spain. They are only about an hour and a half from the port, and suddenly you are straight into proper mountains. For a first Iberian motorcycle trip, missing them would be a bit like visiting London and not bothering with Buckingham Palace.
They are beautiful, no question. The roads are good, the gorges are spectacular and there are plenty of viewpoints. But the Picos themselves are a relatively small area, around 250 square miles, and they can become very busy, especially at weekends. It is a magnet for bikes, cars and people who have confused public roads with a racetrack.
Our view is that two or three days is plenty. There is one main route through the Picos, a dead end road towards Fuente Dé and another route heading east. Ride them, enjoy them, then move on. Do not try to force a week out of a compact area just because it is famous.
Stops worth building into a Picos route
Mirador de Santa Catalina: A tremendous overlook above the Hermida Gorge, where you can look down on the road winding through the valley below.
Mirador del Fitu: Near Ribadesella and above Cangas de Onís, with a viewpoint reached by a short walk.
Fuente Dé: A classic dead end run into the mountains.
Covadonga: A lovely ride with a basilica, sanctuary, cave and a huge dose of Asturian history.
Go Beyond the Picos Into the Cantabrian Mountains
The Picos are only a tiny part of the Cantabrian Mountains. For us, the real magic is in the northern Cantabrian range beyond the famous spots, particularly at the right time of year.
Cross the bridge at Riaño, ride for twenty minutes, and it can feel as though every other motorcycle has vanished. You get huge valleys, deep gorges, remote Spanish villages and proper silence. This is wild bear country, and it feels more authentic than the heavily travelled Picos corridor.
It is also an area packed with history. Santiago de Compostela lies to the west, one of Christianity's major pilgrimage destinations, and Asturias has a story that sits right at the heart of Spain's identity.
Covadonga and King Pelayo
Ride up to Covadonga and you will find statues of King Pelayo, a cave in the mountains, the basilica and the Sanctuary of Santa María. It is a cracking ride even if history is not your main thing.
Pelayo is traditionally associated with the early Christian resistance to Muslim rule in Iberia after the Umayyad conquest. The battle at Covadonga is remembered as a foundational moment in the long and complex process that later became known as the Reconquista.
The popular local version has a bit more colour to it. Pelayo prayed in the cave, received divine encouragement, went down into the narrow valley and defeated a much larger enemy force. Whatever detail one takes from the legend, the geography makes the story easy to understand. Covadonga is a long, enclosed mountain valley. Block the exits, use the terrain well, and a smaller force has a fighting chance.
That is the joy of riding in Spain. You are not just chasing bends. You are rolling through landscapes that explain why places mattered.
Leave Space for the Unexpected
One of the best things about northern Spain is finding a detour you had not planned. Garabandal is a proper example. It is a dead end road climbing into the mountains, not a place that appears on every touring itinerary.
On one visit, it happened to be the 60th anniversary of reported Marian apparitions involving three young girls. There was a small fiesta among the pine trees, with priests, nuns, music and families making the pilgrimage. Whether that is your thing or not, it is impossible not to feel the strength of faith and local tradition in a place like that.
Spain is full of this stuff. Do not plan every minute so tightly that there is no room to stop when something catches your eye.
Crossing Into Portugal: Bragança, Chaves and the N103
If the Picos feel too compact or too busy, head west and cross into Portugal. One of our favourite stretches drops down towards Bragança, passing near Mogadouro, then continues through some seriously good mountain scenery.
The N103 from Braga to Bragança is a road that deserves to be on any Portuguese motorcycle route. It is a reminder of why reading a paper map still matters. On the Spanish side, a major motorway takes much of the heavy traffic. Look at the alternatives and you can see why the older road has every chance of being a belter. It is.
Chaves is another useful waypoint because it marks the northern beginning of Portugal's famous N2, the long road that runs through the country from north to south.
Ride the N2, But Don't Worship It
The N2 is great to do. It is a proper journey, and the southern half is generally more rewarding than the northern half. But do not ride it with your head down just because somebody has told you it is Portugal's must-do road.
Routes are not commandments. Use them as a backbone, then peel away when the map suggests something better. A road alongside a river, across a dam or through a quiet mountain village can easily beat a famous numbered route.
One such alternative is to hug the Portuguese side of the Douro River, with Spain just across the water. There are little diversions along the way, including a dam crossing and the Pinhão del Moro viewpoint, looking out across a massive sweep of the valley.
Avoid the Coast When Planning a Proper Riding Route
People often talk about riding around the outside of Iberia, following the coast. Fair enough, if beaches and seaside towns are the point of the trip. But for riding, we tend to avoid it.
The coastal corridors bring toll motorways, traffic and flat land. They are usually built where construction was easiest, not where the best riding is. Much of inland Spain, meanwhile, is remarkably empty outside places such as Madrid, Seville and a handful of other centres.
That is where the good stuff is. Head inland, find the hills and follow the smaller roads.
Serra da Estrela: Portugal's High Mountain Playground
The Serra da Estrela is another place where you can happily spend a couple of days riding. It is home to mainland Portugal's highest mountain, and the roads give you everything from broad mountain views to brilliant switchbacks.
You can make a loop around the range, ride up to the summit area and stop for coffee, souvenirs and the usual collection of stickers. The route through Manteigas is particularly good, and there is a wonderful descent from the high ground towards Covilhã.
Look out for the distinctive rock formations as you approach Manteigas, including one that looks rather like an Easter Island head. It is one of those little landmarks that turns a good road into a familiar road.
Places to stay around Manteigas
A good mountain riding day is better when the overnight stop is relaxed and friendly. Around Manteigas, two places stood out for us:
Quinta da Leandres: A small property just outside Manteigas with stone-built rooms, a swimming pool and useful self-catering facilities. Perfect for a supermarket run, a few local bits and a picnic by the pool after a day in the mountains.
Camping Toca da Raposa: A welcoming campsite west of the main Serra da Estrela area, with good facilities, a pool and a cosy bar. If food is needed, arrange it before arriving, especially for a group.
One serious note: Portugal has suffered terribly from forest fires, and the effects can be stark in places. The same is true in parts of northern Spain, including stretches between Potes and Riaño. Ride with care, respect any closures and support the small communities that are rebuilding around these landscapes.
Torres Vedras: A Detour for History Buffs
Down near Lisbon, the Lines of Torres Vedras are well worth knowing about. This was a major turning point in the Peninsular War, known in Iberia as the War of Independence.
In 1810, the Duke of Wellington had a vast defensive system constructed north of Lisbon. The forts and supply roads were built in secrecy across the peninsula between the Atlantic and the Tagus, while French forces pushed towards the capital.
The French arrived expecting to force the British and Portuguese back to Lisbon and out of the war. Instead, they encountered heavily defended lines they could not break. The fortifications were designed so that their fields of fire overlapped, and the army behind them could be supplied from the rear.
You can still visit parts of the system today, but do the research before setting off. Historical brown signs may point the way for a while and then suddenly disappear. A bit of proper route planning is needed, which is all part of the fun.
From Central Portugal to Southern Spain
From Torres Vedras, an interesting sweep takes you back north-east towards the Sierra de Gata, then across the Gredos and Guadarrama ranges. Gredos is another area that rewards slower riding and early starts, with wildlife, open mountain country and miles of space.
Further south, the roads towards Faro can be good, with several parallel alternatives to choose from. But be aware of the climate. The Badajoz end of Extremadura is flat and can be fiercely hot. The heat continues through the Seville area until the land rises again towards Ronda.
Get the timing right and southern Spain throws in extras. Around Fuente de Piedra, flamingos can be part of the day. Around El Chorro, there are dramatic gorges and the famous Caminito del Rey, a cliffside walkway through the canyon.
Ronda and Our Favourite Road in Iberia
Ronda is one of those places that almost needs no introduction. It has great tapas bars, a brilliant setting and enough atmosphere to make it worth a stop. It can also be awkward for motorcycles, though. The streets are narrow, parking can be tight and the town is busy.
Staying just outside Ronda at a hotel with secure parking, then taking a short taxi into town, can be the less stressful option.
But the real reason to be here is the road. Our pick for one of the best motorcycle roads in the entire Iberian Peninsula runs from Ronda through El Burgo and Yunquera towards Alhaurín el Grande, crossing the Sierra de las Nieves.
It is a road to go and play on. It is close enough to Ronda for a proper half-day blast, but it delivers mountains, bends, forest and big views without needing a grand expedition. There is a viewpoint near the statue of a warden and a young boy, with panoramic mountain scenery all around.
Ride the White Villages, Then Find the Less Obvious One
The Pueblos Blancos around Ronda are properly lovely. Setenil de las Bodegas is especially memorable, with houses built beneath huge overhanging rocks. Grazalema, Gaucín and Arcos de la Frontera all deserve their reputations too.
But here is a little secret: Benaocaz. It sits right in the middle of the Serranía de Ronda and feels more traditional than some of the better known stops. Coaches do arrive, but it has not been overwhelmed in the same way as Grazalema.
There is a good campsite, walking routes over towards Grazalema and, importantly, bars where English is not automatically the default language. For us, that is usually a very good sign.
Mijas, by comparison, shows what can happen when a beautiful village becomes too popular. It can be difficult to find parking even for one bike. In the heat of late spring, with the coast already busy and temperatures pushing past 30°C, it is often better to ride back towards the hills and make the most of Ronda instead, although Ronda town is also becoming overcrowded.
Build the Route Around the Ride, Not the Checklist
The Picos de Europa, the N2, Serra da Estrela, Torres Vedras, El Chorro and Ronda all deserve their place on an Iberian motorcycle tour. But the main lesson is simpler than any list of must-do roads.
Use the famous places as anchors, not handcuffs. Read the map. Avoid the toll road if the old road looks twisty. Get away from the coast. Give yourself time in the empty interior. Take the dead end road. Stop in a village where nobody is trying to sell you a fridge magnet.
That is how you find the Iberia that stays with you long after the tyres have gone cold.
Part 2 coming soon...
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